Hunting elk on Hopi lands

Author (right) standing next to his father, Willard Sakiestewa Gilbert (left). October 2021

My father and I drove east on Interstate 40 until we reached Exit 219, the Twin Arrows Navajo Casino turnoff.

After exiting the interstate, we headed south on a dirt road until we reached the first of two sign-in checkpoints, indicating that we had entered one of three ranches of the Hopi Three Canyon Ranch.

Since 2005, the Hopi Tribe has owned and managed the ranches near Twin Arrows. Consisting of 400,000 plus acres, the ranches are in the state’s hunting units 4A, 5A, and 5B North. Known for its beautiful hills and canyons, the region has attracted hunters for its elk, deer, and other wildlife.

Each year, the Hopi Tribe works with Arizona Game and Fish to reserve hunting permits for its members to hunt specific Hopi Trust Lands, including those comprising the Hopi Three Canyon Ranch. 

Before this trip, I had little experience hunting. My father taught me to fish when I was young, and I only occasionally hunted rabbits and squirrels. I had no previous knowledge hunting elk or any big game animal.

After driving for an hour, we reached our campsite, a secluded spot on a ridge overlooking a large valley. We set up camp and prepared for the next day’s hunt. Dinner that night was beef and potato stew and white rolls from Sam’s Club.

Hopi hunting grounds at sunset

There is something special and therapeutic about spending time outdoors and away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Here, on the Colorado Plateau, our cell phones, try as they may, could not acquire a signal: no calls, text messages, or internet. 

What normally consumes my time and dictates my day, my Apple smartphone became nothing more than a clock and camera. I felt free.

At night, the Milky Way and constellations I first learned about in grade school were visible. To the south, city lights from Phoenix glowed a golden hue, the same from Flagstaff in the northwest. And far in the distance, headlights from cars resembled a LED neon rope stretching from Winslow to Winona.

Each morning started the same. We woke up at 4:30, heated water for coffee, and talked about whether we heard elk during the night.

Elk bugling is a good sign for hunters. It means the herd is excited, and the seasonal rut is still on. Bugling bulls also imply the presence of female elk, referred to as cows. We had cow tags.

Last day of our 2021 Hopi Hunt

Slowly and carefully, we walked through a forest of cedar, stopping often to listen and paying close attention to movement near or far. Occasionally, if the wind was right, we caught the scent of elk urine. Although we encountered elk that first morning, we did not have a good or clean shot.

Hunting elk is hard work, physically and mentally exhausting. After three days, we packed our gear, broke down camp, and headed out. 

Sometimes, all one returns home with from a hunt are memories and experiences, and those are often more valuable than a freezer full of meat.